A comprehensive guide to achieving gorgeous locks
In a world where there is a new haircare product craze every day, one timeless beauty secret stands strong—hair oil. From ancient civilizations to modern-day hair care routines, using hair oil has prevailed as a nourishing and transformative way to care for our tresses. Today, hair oils continue to captivate the beauty industry, often trending on social media (such as a Tiktok famous rosemary oil and techniques such as hair slugging). While some people may think hair oil is just having its 15 minutes of fame, the truth is the benefits and significance of hair oil runs much deeper than current trends. 1871-57-4
Hair oil has been a treasured beauty secret across ancient cultures. In ancient Egypt, castor oil was used to nourish and add shine to hair, symbolizing status and luxury. Similarly, people in India incorporated coconut, almond, and amla oil in hair oiling routines to promote hair growth and overall health. Hair oil rituals were not limited to these cultures—ancient Greeks used oils for hair styling, while Moroccans favored argan oil (derived from the nut of an argan tree) for moisturizing hair and scalp care. Today, as we embrace the wisdom of ancient cultures and combine it with modern expertise, hair oil remains a cherished open secret for achieving gorgeous, healthy hair.
In this comprehensive guide to hair oil, we will explore its benefits, discuss tips for choosing the right one for your hair concerns, and reveal the best techniques for maximizing its potential. Get ready to unlock the secrets to gorgeous, luscious locks with the power of hair oils.
Hair oil has a myriad of benefits that can change the health and appearance of your hair for the better. Let's take a closer look at some of the biggest things hair oil brings to the table.
If you're looking for a hair warrior to fight frizz, a lightweight hair oil could be the answer, as oils generally lay on top of the hair to smooth out the cuticle, according to hairstylist Candace Witherspoon. Hair oil is great for adding shine to otherwise dull strands.
Besides providing your hair with shine, oil can be a crucial ingredient for nourishing and locking in moisture, says Witherspoon—particularly when applied to damp hair.
"Some hair oils can be used on the scalp to promote hair growth [and reduce shedding]," Witherspoon shares with SHAPE. For example, rosemary oil stimulates hair growth, while peppermint oil is excellent for an itchy scalp. Jojoba oil is good for stimulating the scalp and replacing natural oils. Additionally, if you're experiencing dry, brittle ends prone to breakage, applying an oil may do them some justice, according to Creative Director, Master Stylist, and Colorist, Paul Labrecque with Paul Labrecque Salon and Skincare Spa.
Promoting scalp health is another place the hair oils shine, says Labrecque. Oils can soothe a dry, itchy, or flaky scalp without necessarily clogging pores in the process.
When it comes to hair oils, many options exist, each with its unique set of benefits. Let's explore some of the popular types and their distinct advantages. Below are some of the most popular types of oils used for hair care.
Coconut oil is known for its ability to deeply penetrate the hair shaft, lock in moisture, and prevent damage during styling. It is suitable for all hair types but should be kept away from the scalp and hairline to avoid pore-clogging, stylist and Goldwell National Artist Steven Picciano previously told SHAPE. It's also important to note that coconut is very reactive to temperature and should be warmed up in your hands before applying it to your hair.
Argan oil is a popular lightweight oil that can work wonders for dry hair, says Labrecque. It is rich in linoleic and oleic acids and vitamin E, which protects the hair shaft from damage such as breakage. It also gives the hair impeccable shine, leaving it healthy and vibrant. While Labrecque prefers to apply to damp hair, using a few drops of argan oil as a final step in your styling routine for an extra shine boost is not uncommon.
Jojoba oil is a lightweight oil that closely resembles the natural oils produced by our scalp. It provides excellent hydration, helps balance sebum production, and stimulates the scalp. Additionally, jojoba oil has antifungal properties, which are essential for combating dandruff Aanand Geria, M.D., F.A.A.D., a board-certified dermatologist based in Verona, New Jersey, previously shared with SHAPE.
Olive oil is a staple in your pantry but can also be a key player in your hair care routine as it offers softening and shine-enhancing benefits to the hair (specifically for those with thicker or coarser hair that can take the heavier weight of the oil). Although hair strands can benefit a ton from the use of olive oil which is rich in oleic acid, it's recommended to keep it away from the scalp because fungus (such as Malassezia) is known to thrive in the presence of olive oil Anar Mikailov, M.D., F.A.A.D., a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Skintensive previously warned.
Rosemary oil is an oil known for its hair-enhancing abilities. It's an excellent choice for those looking to promote hair growth, says Witherspoon. Rosemary oil improves circulation and stimulates the hair follicles, comparable to 2% minoxidil. ICYDK, minoxidil is the active ingredient in hair growth products like Rogaine.
With its thick texture, castor oil (derived from the seeds of a castor plant) can make the hair appear thicker and is often relied upon for hair growth. Currently, there is scientific evidence for its actual impact on hair growth. However, it can still benefit those dealing with dry ends or tons of frizz. A key component of castor oil is a fatty acid, ricinoleic acid, often used in hair and skin products as an antistatic and softening agent.
Now that you're privy to hair oil's benefits, you're probably wondering how to choose the right one for your concerns. Consider the following factors when making your choice.
Lightweight oils like jojoba, almond, rosemary, and grapeseed oils are recommended for all hair textures, says Witherspoon. Fine hair benefits from lighter-weight oils that won't weigh down the hair, while thicker or coarser hair can handle heavier oils from time to time. However, the safest bet is to stick with lighter-weight oils in general, suggests Witherspoon.
Consider your hair's porosity, as it determines how well it absorbs and retains moisture. For low porosity hair (hair that has trouble absorbing product), lighter oils like jojoba or almond oil are recommended, says Witherspoon. On the other hand, high-porosity hair may benefit from heavier oils such as castor or avocado oil. It's also worth noting that when applying oil as a hair treatment, porous hair will retain what's necessary, and everything else will be shampooed away, says Labrecque.
Similarly, the thickness of your hair also plays a role in choosing the right oil. As you may have guessed, fine hair tends to do better with lightweight oils like grapeseed or argan oil, while thicker or coarser hair can handle heavier oils like castor oil.
If you have an itchy scalp, oils with soothing properties like peppermint oil can be beneficial. On the other hand, a dry, flaky scalp can benefit from the sebum-mimicking properties of jojoba oil.
As with any beauty remedy, it's important to factor in your lifestyle and hair care routine. If you prefer multi-purpose products, look for hair oils that may also double as skincare. Also, opt for travel-friendly packaging if you're frequently on the go. The last thing you want to deal with while on vacation is a cosmetic bag oil spill.
Oils are not one size fits all. To add another layer, there are also many ways to incorporate any given oil into your hair care routine. Below are some expert-recommended ways to use hair oil, plus tips and techniques to make the most of your hair oil.
Remember that experimentation may be necessary to find the perfect hair oil for you and the method that may work the best for your hair and scalp. Start with small amounts and observe how your hair responds. Don't be discouraged if one oil doesn't suit your hair well.
Apply the oil to dry hair section by section, focusing on the ends. Gently detangle hair with the oil applied as a pre-shampoo treatment, recommends Witherspoon. After 20 minutes of having the oil applied, you can move on to shampooing. "Add in shampoo, then slowly add in water. Your second shampoo will give you more suds", Labrecque adds as a friendly reminder.
Some people prefer to lock in shine and moisture with a post-wash oil application. "Always apply the product when your hair is damp if you want to do more of a treatment with it. If you're using heat to style your strands, be careful of how much you use", Labrecque recommends. Alternatively, you can apply an oil to your damp hair before adding a styler, such as a curl cream or gel to help with curl definition, Witherspoon adds.
For a hot oil treatment, warm the oil slightly (by dropping the container in warm to heat up) and apply it to wet or damp hair after shampooing. Cover your hair with a shower cap or towel to trap heat and allow the oil to penetrate deeply, then rinse and condition your hair as usual.
Apply oil to dry hair, focusing on the ends before bed. Cover your hair with a silk or satin bonnet or wrap it in a silk scarf to prevent transfer onto your bedding, Witherspoon urges. In the morning, rinse or shampoo your hair as you would normally.
Oil can be a great way to complete your look. "As a finisher for seal and shine, a little oil can go on after your hair is blown out or otherwise dry and styled," says Labrecque. Hair oil as a finishing touch on dry hair can tame frizz, add shine, or revitalize curls. Apply a small amount to your palms, rub them together, and lightly glide your hands over your hair to distribute the oil evenly. This technique is also great for fluffing out curls, one of the best ways to incorporate oils into your hair routine, according to Witherspoon.
To ensure you reap the full benefits of hair oil, avoid these common mistakes.
When you read about the many benefits of hair oil, it's tempting to grab the oil nearest to you and begin slathering it on your hair—however, that's strongly advised against by both Labrecque and Witherspoon. Avoid excessive amounts of hair oil, as it can weigh down your hair and leave it greasy without much movement. Additionally, a ton of oil at the scalp is a recipe for product build-up which can lead to significant scalp issues such as dandruff and flakes, Witherspoon adds. Start with a small amount and adjust as needed.
Take care not to over-saturate the ends of your hair with oil, as this can lead to build-up and weigh down your strands. Focus on applying oil a small amount to the mid-lengths and ends, where the hair is often drier and more prone to damage.
Choose high-quality, without additives, synthetic ingredients (such as fragrances), silicones, and alcohol is your best bet when choosing a hair oil. Using subpar oils may not yield the desired results and could even cause scalp irritation or other adverse effects.
Here are answers to some common questions about hair oil.
It is generally not recommended to use hair oil if you have excessively oily hair, both Witherspoon and Labrecque explain. However, if your hair tends to dry at the ends while your scalp remains oily, you can apply only a tiny amount of oil to the ends, avoiding the scalp. "If you fall into this category, I would recommend a product that is more of a scalp stabilizer, like the Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 Capillaire, which gently purifies and moisturizes. For someone like this, I would only ever use oil on hair ends if they were over-processed. Oil on top of oil is a disaster to shampoo out correctly," Labecque elaborates.
Using a drop or two of hair oil at a time is a great way to start, suggests Witherspoon. "If you do not have coarse, thick, or dry strands, you should generally use very small amounts of oil. Those with super thin strands should opt out of using added oils altogether unless your hair suffers from severe breakage", Labrecque explains further.
Both experts recommend regularly shampooing your hair to ensure you're not putting your scalp or hair at risk for product build-up when using oils. In some cases, you can use a clarifying shampoo and follow it with a moisturizing shampoo for the second wash. This two-step process ensures effective cleansing while maintaining moisture balance in the hair, according to Witherspoon.
If you have a confirmed allergy to the plant from which an oil is derived, steer clear (for example, avoid almond oil if you have a known allergy to nuts in general). Also, as with any hair product, patch-testing before applying all over may be the best course of action.
Hair oil is a versatile hair product that's more than worth stashing away in your hair care arsenal. It offers numerous benefits, from locking in moisture in your hair to promoting growth and reducing frizz. By understanding the different types of hair oils, choosing the right one for your hair type and concerns, and mastering proper application techniques, you can unlock the secrets to gorgeous, luscious locks that have been known for centuries. Remember to take the time to find what oils work best for you, and enjoy the process of transforming your hair.
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